While you are eating breakfast a man appears and
introduces himself as Mr. Hassan, explaining that he will be your guide.
He will accompany you to the famous Shalimar gardens, a pleasant boat ride
away across the lake. From the back porch he summons a passing water taxi,
or shikara, and you both get in. While the boatman guides you expertly
towards the far side of the lake using a heart-shaped paddle, you lounge
on cushions beneath a shady canopy, contemplating passing lotus flowers.
The gardens are beautiful, if a little rundown, and Mr. Hassan is a veritable
encyclopedia concerning the long history of the place. After several hours
in the sun, the ride back is a welcome chance to cool off. Back on the houseboat,
you return to the back porch to sip a cool drink and watch the activity
on the lake. A passing boatman greets you and says: "I have many handicrafts
from Kashmir and all of India." Mr. Hassan explains: "He will
show them to you in your living room, if you invite
him."
"Tomorrow is a very important holiday, independence day," Mr. Hassan tells you a little later on , "and I think it is not such a good day to be in town, it could be very crowded." He recommends a trip to the beautiful meadows of Gulmarg. He also very strongly recommends hiring his cousin's taxi, describing him as an excellent driver.
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