Shalimar

     While you are eating breakfast a man appears and introduces himself as Mr. Hassan, explaining that he will be your guide. He will accompany you to the famous Shalimar gardens, a pleasant boat ride away across the lake. From the back porch he summons a passing water taxi, or shikara, and you both get in. While the boatman guides you expertly towards the far side of the lake using a heart-shaped paddle, you lounge on cushions beneath a shady canopy, contemplating passing lotus flowers. The gardens are beautiful, if a little rundown, and Mr. Hassan is a veritable encyclopedia concerning the long history of the place. After several hours in the sun, the ride back is a welcome chance to cool off. Back on the houseboat, you return to the back porch to sip a cool drink and watch the activity on the lake. A passing boatman greets you and says: "I have many handicrafts from Kashmir and all of India." Mr. Hassan explains: "He will show them to you in your living room, if you invite him."

     "Tomorrow is a very important holiday, independence day," Mr. Hassan tells you a little later on , "and I think it is not such a good day to be in town, it could be very crowded." He recommends a trip to the beautiful meadows of Gulmarg. He also very strongly recommends hiring his cousin's taxi, describing him as an excellent driver.

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