Your taxi speeds out of the airport gate and towards the city of Srinigar, slowing occasionally for large pot holes. Before long you enter the city proper, the streets brimming with pedestrians and every imaginable kind of wheeled vehicle. On the other side of town Dal Lake comes into view, and with the mountains as a backdrop it looks like a postcard come to life.


     Inside, the houseboat is suprisingly cool and smells sweetly of wood. The back porch seems the perfect place from which to watch the sun set on Dal Lake. The owner of the boat eventually joins you, and invites you to call him by his first name, Akbar. When the conversation turns to the local tourist attractions, Akbar tells you that he believes visits to these attractions to be much more rewarding with the services of a good guide. In fact, he says, he knows of one who is extremely knowledgeable and highly recommendable. You are left to decide over a tasty dinner of mutton and rich sauce whether to engage the guide or to go it on your own.

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