A guard doubling as doorman ushers you into the marble-filled lobby, and porters scurry over to pick up your luggage. After a hot bath in your carpeted and centrally air conditioned room, you peruse the room service menu which includes Kashmiri, European and Chinese dishes.

     Room service seems like the way to go in the morning as well, and your order is delivered by two waiters who take enormous care in pouring and serving. First on your agenda is a visit to the fort that dominates the town, and after a short auto rickshaw ride and a hike, you are overlooking the roofs of Srinigar, beautiful Dal Lake, and the mountains beyond. After returning to the hotel for another excellent meal, you wander the narrow streets where vendors sell everything from radios to spices and religious icons. Many vendors light up upon seeing a tourist, and try to convince you to enter their shops. In the afternoon you visit a mosque and a museum, but mostly you wander the streets and absorb the atmosphere. Young and old stop their activities in order to simply stare at you, fascinated by your every move.

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