On the Road
It is still early when you depart Srinigar. At first the road follows
the valley, and then it slowly starts to climb as the sun rises higher in
the sky. An hour later, you are among stark peaks and the narrow road 
barely seems able to cling to the mountainside. You
pass many signs which ask, using creative sayings, for drivers to slow down
and stay alert. Buses and trucks occasionally come careening down the hill
at reckless speeds, forcing your driver to quickly make room. More than
once during this day you will see the remains of wrecked vehicles in the
valleys below. Eventually you come to a tunnel, guarded by soldiers. When
you enter, it is surprisingly narrow, and deep trenches line both sides.
Your driver navigates carefully, but the tunnel is a dark, dank and somewhat
frightening place, and it is a relief to leave it behind.
A little
later the first views of the plains appear, and at a small settlement, the
driver suggests stopping for tea. The tea vendor mixes spices and milk in
an old black pot over a gas flame. After the tea has boiled for several
minutes he strains it and pours it skillfully through the air from one container
to another. Then he serves the sweet, spicy mixture in glasses. After the
tea, it is time to continue on to Jammu.
