When you arrive in Jammu the sun has set, leaving the sky looking
burnt and tired. The driver takes you straight to the railway station where,
after braving a long line, you inquire about the night train to Delhi. 
It is expected to leave at 9 pm and you
are told that berths are available in both 1st class and in air-conditioned
class (double the price). This leaves time for a meal at the station. Crossing
the main waiting room, you must be careful not to step on people who are
lying on the floor. In anticipation of a long wait, many families have staked
out a portion of the floor and are sleeping, eating, and simply living their
lives while waiting for the often tardy trains.
The meal consists of a thick lentil-based soup called dal, mixed vegetables, fresh yoghurt, and fried bread. It is very tasty, and very spicy. When 9 o'clock approaches, you ask where to find your train and the confusion begins. The track numbers and destination of the train do not appear to be marked anywhere. Everyone you ask is extremely kind, but you receive several different answers to your question and you are therefore unable to be sure which train is the right one. After running around to several tracks you come to the conclusion that your train is at the first platform, and then you go through a similar exercise to find the correct car. Finally you are successful, and you make yourself comfortable for the night in your [first class] [A/C class] sleeper.
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